Dog Breeds: So You Want a New Best Friend?
By Allen Shaw
So you want a new best friend. Well why not choose a new best friend known for its undying loyalty and dependability…a dog. But what kind of dog should you get? Simple…first you need to understand your reason for getting a dog.
For example, are you looking for a protector? Then maybe a German Shepherd or a Rottweiler is what you are looking for. Are you more interested in a dog known for its ability to do tricks so you can impress your friends? Then any dog in the terrier or poodle families may be the best choice for you. Maybe you're overly impressed with the "cuteness" factor of toy breeds.2 Cocker Spaniels, Chihuahuas, or Shih Tzus may be for you. So let's take a look at the different breeds.
It can be a daunting task to decide on what kind of dog to buy. There are breeds from which to choose. So how do does the inexperienced future dog owner decide. Simple. The first thing every future master should know is that all dogs, no matter their breed, can be lumped together into four major groups; Working dogs, Sporting Dogs, Toy Dogs and the Mutt. First you have to know why you want a dog. So let's look at the four categories.
WORKING DOGS
Working dogs include German Shephards, Rottweilers, Collies, Hounds and nearly all of the larger breeds. These are breeds known for the fierce loyalty, their quick minds and their ability to learn quickly. Shephards and Rottweilers are good for protection and search and rescue. Retrievers and Setters are highly valued to hunters for their ability to swim and track prey. Collies are known for their instinctive herding ability and have been a very important member of the rancher's families for hundreds of years. Hounds are fantastic trackers and are used by search and rescue teams all over the world because of their incredible sense of smell.
SPORTING DOGS
Retrievers and Setters are the two major exceptions to the rule that most large breeds belong to the working dog category. Retrievers and Setters are highly valued by the sporting and hunting communities for their instinctive ability to retrieve. Hunters use Labrador Retrievers for hunting various birds, especially ducks. Labs are known for their love of the water. That, combined with their innate love of the game fetch, makes the lab the number-one choice of hunters and other sportsman.
TOY DOGS
Toy breeds seem to have the most press in recent years thanks to their popularity with celebrities. Paris Hilton and Britney Spears have brought the Chihuahua back into the spotlight. Jessica Simpson is pushing the lovability of the Maltese. The strongest drawing card for these breeds is the all-powerful "cute factor." These are the breeds, which also include Shih Tzu's, Terriers, Pugs and Dachshunds, which are routinely spoiled to the point that their owners no longer realize they even have a canine. They are convinced they have a little human in the house.
MUTTS
Of the breeds available, Mutts are probably the most plentiful and the most diverse. Everything from a Cockapoo (part Cocker, part Poodle) to a Rottsund (part Rottweiller, part Dachshund) is available. Mutts come in all shapes, sizes, colors, temperaments and personalities. And they can be found in every Humane Society and Rescue Society in the world. They can be smart and they can be stupid. They can be cute and they can be downright ugly. And the best part…with a Mutt, there's definitely a dog out there for everyone.
There are of course other things to consider when buying a dog. What is its reputation with children? How big do they get? What are the health problems associated with a certain breed? Am I going to show the dog or is it primarily going to be a pet? All good questions, and all should be thoroughly researched before deciding on a certain breed. But before you consider the answers to breed-specific questions, you should understand your own reasons for owning a dog. If you are looking for a protector and go to the local pound and take home a Chihuahua, neither you or Tinkerbelle are going to be happy. So before you do your research and decide to buy a dog, do a little soul searching. If you understand and accept your own reasons for getting a dog, it will make you a more understanding owner. That understanding translates to a happy dog. And isn't that what all dog owners want.
Use with active URLS
Allen Shaw is a successful author who provides pet tips and information on dogs and dog breeds. Read articles on different breeds at Dogs 'N' U.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Allen_Shaw
Tuesday, December 13, 2005
Tuesday, November 29, 2005
What Supplies Will You Need for a New Dog?
What Supplies Will You Need for a Dog?
By K Brandt
The time has come. You have stopped by the pet shop every day on the way home from work to dote on the cute puppies in the window. Normally you return home with the thoughts of a cute puppy scampering down your hallways. Well, today you did it. You decided to purchase your very own puppy. However, before you bring your puppy home you need to be prepared. You need to purchase various dog supplies so that you can provide a welcoming home to your new dog.
What types of dog supplies do you need? There is a bounty of dog supplies available on the market today. The dog supplies range from basic necessities such as dog food to cute dog costumes. Dog supplies have become such a hot market today that numerous pet supply companies have popped up to meet any needs you have for dog supplies. This competition in the market place is a benefit to you because often times you can find great prices on dog supplies by doing a little market research.
Let’s first take a look at the basic dog supplies that you will want to have when your pooch arrives home. Basic dog supplies include: dog food, dog bowls, collar, leash, kennel/crate, and dog bed. Dog food is number one on the list because you shouldn’t feed your canine table scraps or your own dinner. You can place their food in regular bowls, but it is fun to search for a cute dog bowl. You can find dog bowls that even have their name on it.
Dogs have specific nutritional needs to need to be met so they grow up strong and have a healthy life. Proper dog supplies include the dog food that is geared towards their age, weight/size, and activity level. It is vital to maintain the proper weight for your dog’s size and breed. Table scraps and human food can lead to excess weight that is a detriment to your dog’s overall health. Not to mention they might have some unsightly waste products as a result of the human food.
When searching for dog food from your dog supplies list it is crucial that you find the right dog food. Check with a veterinarian, breeder, or dog shop owner for recommendations on the proper food. Dogs also will become used to their specific brand and type of dog food and if you suddenly change it they may suffer from upset stomach. Since they will be on the dog food for a long time it is a great idea to spend time finding the proper dog food for your pooch.
A dog collar and a dog leash should be next on your list of dog supplies. Many states require that you register your pet with the state. In addition you may need to demonstrate that your dog has had the required vaccines, such as rabies shots, and they must wear a tag on their collar regarding this. Also create a dog tag that has your dog’s name on it, your name, and phone number in case your dog ever gets lost.
Most cities require that your dog be on a leash through various leash laws. Keeping your dog on a leash is a smart idea especially when you head out to parks or walk along the road. You don’t want your pooch to bother other people or run out in front of an oncoming car. These scary situations can be avoided by using a leash to control your dog’s movement. Leashes are also a training tool which you can use to teach your dog the proper behavior for their daily walk.
By K Brandt
The time has come. You have stopped by the pet shop every day on the way home from work to dote on the cute puppies in the window. Normally you return home with the thoughts of a cute puppy scampering down your hallways. Well, today you did it. You decided to purchase your very own puppy. However, before you bring your puppy home you need to be prepared. You need to purchase various dog supplies so that you can provide a welcoming home to your new dog.
What types of dog supplies do you need? There is a bounty of dog supplies available on the market today. The dog supplies range from basic necessities such as dog food to cute dog costumes. Dog supplies have become such a hot market today that numerous pet supply companies have popped up to meet any needs you have for dog supplies. This competition in the market place is a benefit to you because often times you can find great prices on dog supplies by doing a little market research.
Let’s first take a look at the basic dog supplies that you will want to have when your pooch arrives home. Basic dog supplies include: dog food, dog bowls, collar, leash, kennel/crate, and dog bed. Dog food is number one on the list because you shouldn’t feed your canine table scraps or your own dinner. You can place their food in regular bowls, but it is fun to search for a cute dog bowl. You can find dog bowls that even have their name on it.
Dogs have specific nutritional needs to need to be met so they grow up strong and have a healthy life. Proper dog supplies include the dog food that is geared towards their age, weight/size, and activity level. It is vital to maintain the proper weight for your dog’s size and breed. Table scraps and human food can lead to excess weight that is a detriment to your dog’s overall health. Not to mention they might have some unsightly waste products as a result of the human food.
When searching for dog food from your dog supplies list it is crucial that you find the right dog food. Check with a veterinarian, breeder, or dog shop owner for recommendations on the proper food. Dogs also will become used to their specific brand and type of dog food and if you suddenly change it they may suffer from upset stomach. Since they will be on the dog food for a long time it is a great idea to spend time finding the proper dog food for your pooch.
A dog collar and a dog leash should be next on your list of dog supplies. Many states require that you register your pet with the state. In addition you may need to demonstrate that your dog has had the required vaccines, such as rabies shots, and they must wear a tag on their collar regarding this. Also create a dog tag that has your dog’s name on it, your name, and phone number in case your dog ever gets lost.
Most cities require that your dog be on a leash through various leash laws. Keeping your dog on a leash is a smart idea especially when you head out to parks or walk along the road. You don’t want your pooch to bother other people or run out in front of an oncoming car. These scary situations can be avoided by using a leash to control your dog’s movement. Leashes are also a training tool which you can use to teach your dog the proper behavior for their daily walk.
Dog supplies have improved over the years especially regarding different types of leashes. Does your dog constantly pull away from you on the leash causing them to cough? If so, you can buy a least that doesn’t connect to just their collar, but is instead a harness that wraps around their entire body. You slip their legs through it. This type of leash can be much more comfortable for your dog, so consider it when looking for dog supplies.
If you leave your dog outside at all, whether you are home or not, you need to make sure that your dog is in a secure area. Therefore, you can keep them on a leash that is connected to a runner cord so they have a great area to run. Or you can provide a fenced in area for them to play in. Special things to note when looking for these types of dog supplies is that the leash should be a chest harness leash because you don’t want the dog to constantly run after passersbys and hurt their throat. If you have a fence then make sure that it is in line with your dog’s jumping ability. You don’t want your dog jumping over the fence the second you turn your head.
Next on your dog supplies list should be a dog kennel/crate and/or dog bed. Your dog needs a place they can call their own in your home. A dog kennel/crate helps a dog to feel safe, especially when you are gone. Refrain from using the dog kennel as a discipline retreat. You want them to look forward to their own space in your home.
These are the basic dog supplies you need to purchase before you pick up your new pooch. Later on, you can spend hours finding fun toys, dog chews, and dog costumes for your new best canine friend.
Visit the Dog supplies website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog books, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=K_Brandt
Dog Training
Dog Training – House Training Your Dog
By Johannes Nefischer
House training is one of the most important parts of training any dog to be a valued part of the family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best way to house train a dog is to use the dog’s own nature to your benefit.
The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. Dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits regarding where they like to urinate and defecate. For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible to use these natural canine habits when house training your dog.
Setting up the training area
The first step in house training your dog is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining.
It is important for the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her dog as possible. It is important for the owner to play with the dog in the training area, and to let the dog eat and sleep in that area. The dog should be provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store bought bed to a large towel to a large box. At first, the dog may eliminate in this area, but once the dog has recognized it as his or her own space, he or she will be reluctant to soil it.
After the dog has gotten used to sleeping in the bed, the owner can move it around the house, relocating it from room to room. When you are not with your dog, the dog should be confined to the training area.
Setting up the toilet area
The second part of house training is to set up the toilet area for the dog. It is important for the dog to have access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for the owner to accompany the dog each time until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in the toilet area. This will ensure that the dog uses only the established toilet area.
A set feeding schedule makes the house training process a lot easier for both the owner and the dog. Feeding the dog on a regular basis will also create a regular schedule for the dog’s toilet habits. Once you know when your dog is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide the dog to the established toilet area.
Once the dog has established a toilet area and is using it on a regular basis, it is very important to not confine the dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. That is because if the dog is unable to hold it, he or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area. This habit can make house training much more difficult.
Continuing the house training process
After the dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended once you are sure of the dog’s ability to control its bladder and bowels.
When you first expand the training area to a single room, let the dog eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.
Speeding up the process
If this process is too lengthy for your needs, it can be speeded up, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It is easier to take your time up front than to retrain a problem dog later. One way to successfully speed up house training is to praise and reward the dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is also important not to punish the dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process.
Johannes Nefischer
Small Business Consultant and Dog Trainer
In spare time finds tips and tricks on hunting-dog training at www.huntingdogtips.com
Article Source:
Chiggers affect man and dogs and are prevalent in southern U.S. Areas. Eradication if chiggers is generally best achieved by manual removal. Prevention is somewhat effective if you will limit your shih tzu to manicured grass.
Coccidiosis cause an enteritis condition of cats and dogs. Coccidiosis is most common in puppies and kittens. Symptoms are mild to severe bloody diarrhea, lethargy and weakness from dehabilitation of nutrients caused by the diarrhea, anorexia and death if not treated. Coccidiosis is seldom fatal when treated with the proper medication by the veterinarian who diagnoses the parasite in a timely manner. Coccidiosis is always present among canines. Some canines become carriers and have no symptoms themselves. Excessive stress can cause symptom producing coccidia in very young puppies and kittens that can become life threatening if not treated properly.
Fleas are most common to dogs of any breed including the shih tzu. Fleas constantly bite and can produce allergic reactions in some shih tzu or any breed of dog. A sensitive dog will scratch and chew to relieve the itch, only to produce a "hotspot" or some other type of skin dermatitis which can lead to a secondary infection.. Fleas can also act as temporary hosts in tapeworms' life cycles. A dog can acquire a tapeworm as it chews and ingest the fleas. Tapeworms can be effectively treated by your vet. The best protocol is to avoid fleas altogether. Flea control is comparatively easy through a wide selectin of products including soaps, shampoos, sprays, powders, dips, natural and herbal treatments.
Giardia is usually found around remote bodies of water. It can occur in dogs or shih tzu of any age and can be transferred to humans. Onset is usually sudden. Symptoms are diarrhea, lethargy, lack of appetite and weight loss. Diagnosis is made by fecal microscopic examination. Resolution is successful provided treatment is initiated early.
Heartworm occurs in two forms throughout the lower forty-eight states. One is harmless, the other if left untreated is deadly. The heartworm is carried by mosquito bites. Diagnosis is made through a blood test. Regular prophylactic treatment is available and highly recommended.
Hookworms are found primarily in the southern portions of the United States. Infection may also be transferred to puppies from the mother's milk. For this reason, all newborn puppies need to be regularly dewormed starting at 2 weeks of age up until at least 12 weeks of age following the recommendations and schedule of your own personal vet. There are a variety of dewormers available that completely eradicate the problem of hookworms.
Mange occurs in one of two forms: Demodex or Sarcoptes. Positive diagnosis can be made only by a veterinarian under microscopic examination of skin samples taken from an affected area. If treated early, mange can be completely cured. Treatment is usually by therapeutic shampoor or dips once a week for several weeks. Prevention of the mite infestations that can cause Sarcoptes mange is recommended. Ask your vet for appropriate mange mite medication to prevent the disease. The same mites that cause mange in dogs and shih tzu can cause ear mites and ear infections.
Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at:
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Johannes_Nefischer
By Johannes Nefischer
House training is one of the most important parts of training any dog to be a valued part of the family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best way to house train a dog is to use the dog’s own nature to your benefit.
The great thing about dogs, and the thing that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. Dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits regarding where they like to urinate and defecate. For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible to use these natural canine habits when house training your dog.
Setting up the training area
The first step in house training your dog is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger dogs find a crate too confining.
It is important for the owner to spend as much time in the training area with his or her dog as possible. It is important for the owner to play with the dog in the training area, and to let the dog eat and sleep in that area. The dog should be provided with a special bed in the training area, anything from a store bought bed to a large towel to a large box. At first, the dog may eliminate in this area, but once the dog has recognized it as his or her own space, he or she will be reluctant to soil it.
After the dog has gotten used to sleeping in the bed, the owner can move it around the house, relocating it from room to room. When you are not with your dog, the dog should be confined to the training area.
Setting up the toilet area
The second part of house training is to set up the toilet area for the dog. It is important for the dog to have access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for the owner to accompany the dog each time until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in the toilet area. This will ensure that the dog uses only the established toilet area.
A set feeding schedule makes the house training process a lot easier for both the owner and the dog. Feeding the dog on a regular basis will also create a regular schedule for the dog’s toilet habits. Once you know when your dog is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide the dog to the established toilet area.
Once the dog has established a toilet area and is using it on a regular basis, it is very important to not confine the dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. That is because if the dog is unable to hold it, he or she may be forced to eliminate in the training area. This habit can make house training much more difficult.
Continuing the house training process
After the dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended once you are sure of the dog’s ability to control its bladder and bowels.
When you first expand the training area to a single room, let the dog eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.
Speeding up the process
If this process is too lengthy for your needs, it can be speeded up, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It is easier to take your time up front than to retrain a problem dog later. One way to successfully speed up house training is to praise and reward the dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is also important not to punish the dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process.
Johannes Nefischer
Small Business Consultant and Dog Trainer
In spare time finds tips and tricks on hunting-dog training at www.huntingdogtips.com
Article Source:
Chiggers affect man and dogs and are prevalent in southern U.S. Areas. Eradication if chiggers is generally best achieved by manual removal. Prevention is somewhat effective if you will limit your shih tzu to manicured grass.
Coccidiosis cause an enteritis condition of cats and dogs. Coccidiosis is most common in puppies and kittens. Symptoms are mild to severe bloody diarrhea, lethargy and weakness from dehabilitation of nutrients caused by the diarrhea, anorexia and death if not treated. Coccidiosis is seldom fatal when treated with the proper medication by the veterinarian who diagnoses the parasite in a timely manner. Coccidiosis is always present among canines. Some canines become carriers and have no symptoms themselves. Excessive stress can cause symptom producing coccidia in very young puppies and kittens that can become life threatening if not treated properly.
Fleas are most common to dogs of any breed including the shih tzu. Fleas constantly bite and can produce allergic reactions in some shih tzu or any breed of dog. A sensitive dog will scratch and chew to relieve the itch, only to produce a "hotspot" or some other type of skin dermatitis which can lead to a secondary infection.. Fleas can also act as temporary hosts in tapeworms' life cycles. A dog can acquire a tapeworm as it chews and ingest the fleas. Tapeworms can be effectively treated by your vet. The best protocol is to avoid fleas altogether. Flea control is comparatively easy through a wide selectin of products including soaps, shampoos, sprays, powders, dips, natural and herbal treatments.
Giardia is usually found around remote bodies of water. It can occur in dogs or shih tzu of any age and can be transferred to humans. Onset is usually sudden. Symptoms are diarrhea, lethargy, lack of appetite and weight loss. Diagnosis is made by fecal microscopic examination. Resolution is successful provided treatment is initiated early.
Heartworm occurs in two forms throughout the lower forty-eight states. One is harmless, the other if left untreated is deadly. The heartworm is carried by mosquito bites. Diagnosis is made through a blood test. Regular prophylactic treatment is available and highly recommended.
Hookworms are found primarily in the southern portions of the United States. Infection may also be transferred to puppies from the mother's milk. For this reason, all newborn puppies need to be regularly dewormed starting at 2 weeks of age up until at least 12 weeks of age following the recommendations and schedule of your own personal vet. There are a variety of dewormers available that completely eradicate the problem of hookworms.
Mange occurs in one of two forms: Demodex or Sarcoptes. Positive diagnosis can be made only by a veterinarian under microscopic examination of skin samples taken from an affected area. If treated early, mange can be completely cured. Treatment is usually by therapeutic shampoor or dips once a week for several weeks. Prevention of the mite infestations that can cause Sarcoptes mange is recommended. Ask your vet for appropriate mange mite medication to prevent the disease. The same mites that cause mange in dogs and shih tzu can cause ear mites and ear infections.
Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Sign up at:
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Johannes_Nefischer
Fleas
Did you know…
• Fleas spend only 10% of their time on your animal
• An average fleas' life span can be up to 2-3 years
• One female flea can lay up to 1 million eggs during its life
• Eggs can live unhatched in your carpet for a year until the right environment for hatching occurs
• Bark dust, wood piles and ivy are great places for fleas to survive the winter months
• The flea is the second oldest insect (the cockroach is the first) because of its excellent survival mechanisms
The Flea Life Cycle
Adult cat and dog fleas prefer to feed on pets rather than people. The pets are closer to the ground and have warmer body temperatures than humans. Second choice would be children -- especially infants and toddlers. Female fleas will probe and bite and average of seven times in a "grouping" before locating a blood vessel in the skin. The saliva they leave with each bite can cause a localized allergic reaction (flea allergy dermatitis or FAD as we call it in the veterinary world.) After feeding on large amounts of blood, the female flea deposits her eggs and droppings (flea dirt) which consists mostly of undigested blood. Both the eggs (which are white and about the size of a grain of salt) and the droppings (which are black and appear like ground pepper, often in the shape of a comma) drop off the animal's coat and spread all over the environment.
Here's a quick home-test to see if your pet has fleas: Lay out a white piece of butcher paper and groom your pet for a few minutes as they stand on the paper. Do you see any black, comma-looking things against the white paper? If so, put a drop of water on it. If it's flea dirt, the water will turn pink.
Flea eggs remain in the environment for variable amounts of time and are not destroyed by extremes in temperature or by pesticides. When proper conditions exist, the eggs hatch and release tiny white larvae. These larvae are not able to get around and must rely on the undigested blood left in the droppings for their food source. Larvae are very susceptible to extremes in environment, pesticides, and insect growth regulators.
Within several days the larvae spin a protective cocoon called a pupae around themselves. The pupae are very resistant to all but steam cleaning and can lie dormant for many months to years. The pupae is the primary stage that over-winters in the environment. When conditions are favorable (warm and moist), the pupae release young adult fleas and the cycle is complete.
The length of the flea life cycle can vary from a little as one month to as long as two or three years.
Flea Control Products
There are many products available to eliminate fleas. They differ in effectiveness, application, safety, convenience, odor of the product, and duration of effectiveness. Sounds pretty complicated, right? It is. It's actually a chemical nightmare.
AN EFFECTIVE FLEA CONTROL PROGRAM MUST INCLUDE ALL ANIMALS IN THE HOUSEHOLD AND THE ENTIRE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH THE ANIMALS LIVE (INCLUDING YOUR CAR.)
Many people only use one product at a time, which is NOT effective. You must treat the animal, the house, and the yard all at one time to get this challenge under control.
Control of fleas on the pet: You have your choice of powders, sprays, dips, spot-ons or oral growth regulators.
Flea Powder: Manufacturers of these products say flea powder is safe to use every 3-4 days on dogs and cats older than 8 weeks of age. The active ingredient, (pyrethrins being the safest and most natural ingredient) takes about 15 minutes to kill fleas when first applied. By the end of 5-7 days, if not reapplied, flea powder works only as a residual, taking up to 12 hours to kill the flea. There is no growth regulator in this product so it only kills the adults.
Note: Powder should be diluted to half strength with talcum powder when used on puppies and kittens.
Disadvantages of flea powder: Flea powder can make the coat feel rough and dirty. So, if your pet is already uncomfortable from the fleas and now you are alienating them by not giving them the affection you used to when their coats were cleaner and softer, this makes the problem worse. The animals do not enjoy flea powder and it may make asthma worse.
Flea Sprays: Sprays can vary somewhat. Most are alcohol-based and some are more organic than others. The alcohol is for quick kill of the adult and pre-adult stages. Some flea sprays contain an insect growth regulator that will kill flea eggs as well. Make sure you get one with this in it. Pets run when they see you come to them with that bottle after a few applications.
The only time I use flea spray is when I'm treating a cat for ear mites (I spray some on a Kleenex and wipe their head down after I clean their ears and put medication down both ear canals.) I also use it to spray my pant legs when I take walks in the woods during tick season.
So, could you use rubbing alcohol or vodka to kill the adults? Yes, but using rubbing alcohol can be toxic. Rubbing alcohol contains a bit of methanol, which can cause blindness when ingested. Cats groom themselves and will ingest this. If you want to use alcohol, stick with vodka or Everclear, but it's really not very effective.
Aromatherapy: Herbal insecticides include pennyroyal (very toxic), clove, citronella, and eucalyptus oils (diluted of course.) These can be mixed in with shampoos or applied to a material flea collar. They can be very irritating when applied directly to the skin. They should not be put directly onto the coat either because when the animal grooms himself or herself they will ingest it. In general, pets hate this type of flea control and only submit to it in a learned helplessness type of situation.
Flea collars are only minimally effective in the control of fleas. Most collars contain dichlorvos, which is released as a vapor. They are sold under several trade names. Dichlorvos is toxic to animals and people and can cause severe reactions occasionally. Remember, flea and tick collars don't work well for animals over 20 pounds.
Note: Collars are especially harmful to Persian cats. They may also cause localized reactions around the neck.
Ultrasonic collars are ineffective and may cause hearing loss in your pet. Ultrasonic collars are an expensive gimmick. Don't fall for this.
Dips which kill fleas and mites for several days or weeks are highly toxic and should not be used for routine flea control. One study found that more than 3 dips per year led to an increased incidence of cancer. Wear gloves if you decide on this method of flea control (although I have no idea why you would.) Try to pick a non-organophosphate (OGP) type with a growth inhibitor in it.
Pour-on and Spot-on products containing organophosphates are also very toxic. Organophosphate spot-on kills the fleas only after it bites the pet and sucks its blood. These products are also dangerous where infants are concerned. Do not let a small child be exposed to the pet for at least 24 hours after these products are used. I have heard of instances where the parent found a dead infant the day after putting this on the family dog that slept with the child. They are applied once every two weeks. A good rule of thumb is "if a little is good, a lot is NOT necessarily better." Use only the dose specified on the bottle. Make sure you know the weight of the animal before you dose them. Make note of the next paragraph.
Common side effects to flea products may include hypersalivation, vomiting, and diarrhea. Some animals appear to foam at the mouth, others stagger about. Their pupils dilate and they seem disoriented. The best treatment is to remove the product from the animal's skin or body. Bathe your pet immediately—with a mild shampoo NOT containing flea control. Some animals may need to be treated by a veterinarian with atropine or steroids to help the animal deal with the toxicity and in some instances to save their lives. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to call your vet.
One product on the market seems to be working quite well and is minimally toxic. It is called Advantage. Advantage is a spot-on with a growth inhibitor, which works for 3-4 weeks. It permeates the fatty layer of the skin. It should be applied after the bath because bathing leeches the product from the skin. Advantix is a formula that is used for those who are in a tick area. It is also fairly safe.
For dogs that swim regularly, this product may not work as well as others such as Program. If Advantage is not working for you, you are most likely not following a total flea control program of treating all animals in your house, premise spraying the house, the car and treating the yard as well.
Occasionally I have seen Advantage react locally with the skin causing the hair in that area to fall out, but this is rare.
Program is an oral product that contains growth inhibitor. It is given once a month and literally sterilizes the adult fleas so they cannot produce any eggs. It is very safe for both the animal and owners. The animals don't mind the taste in most cases and it is very effective when used with environmental control. Some forms of Program also include a heartworm preventative and monthly roundwormer (pyrantel pamoate). This product is especially recommended for flea problems of a larger magnitude and for long term maintenance. It's not a good product for the flea allergic pet, however because the flea still needs to bite the pet to ingest the growth inhibitor.
I am often asked about Frontline products. I will have to say that I have never muscle-tested this product to be safe for any pet. It sure is popular and sells like crazy (I don't carry it.) I don't know why, but Advantage and Program seem to be the safest products with the fewest chance for side effects.
Flea Shampoos provide no protection once they are rinsed off. They can provide temporary relief (a few hours with severe infestation of the environment) and will kill the fleas on the animal at the time of the bath. They are good in getting rid of the flea dirt on the skin, but they also dry the skin out and are not good for dogs with dry/flaky or oily/greasy skin. It's better to choose the correct medicated shampoo for your pet in these cases.
Apply flea spray, powder, or Advantage to the pet after the bath for longer lasting results. Any animal having skin disease along with the flea problem should see your veterinarian for proper treatment and recommendations regarding diet, shampoo and treatments.
I'm sorry to say that B-Vitamins, Brewer's Yeast, Garlic, Cedar Chips and Herbal Flea Collars will not kill fleas. They do, however, make the skin smell bad to the flea and will deter them. Scientific studies show a decrease of only 20% in the flea numbers with the use of these products.
Note: Cedar chips and shavings can be harmful to your pet's skin. The slivers off the chips can embed into the skin and cause tumors (that goes for rats too!). The essential oil of the wood is also very toxic and has been known to cause cancer.
Avon Skin-So-Soft is used by itself as a flea deterrent and is in Duo-Cide products. To use this product, add 2 tablespoons Skin-So-Soft per pint water in a pint spray bottle. Shake well just before using each time--it is an oil/water interface. Skin-So-Soft may make the coat oily and you may have to wash the pet more often as the dust will stick to this oil more readily. If your pet has allergies, this would not be a good choice. The goal is to reduce allergen exposure on the coat for allergic pets. This product would help the pollens to adhere to your pet causing more problems.
Flea combs are highly recommended for animals that cannot tolerate flea products. The challenge is to get the owners to use the comb as often as necessary to help the animal--every day. Grooming can be biweekly after you comb off no more fleas for several days in a row. Continue to use the flea comb daily for those flea-allergic pets. Fleas need to be crushed with a thumbnail as they have very hard exoskeletons.
Some fleas combs are better than others. Try to purchase one that will rake off the adult fleas, eggs, and flea dirt all at once. These combs are also excellent in the prevention of hairballs in cats (and will comb out lice in a child's hair very effectively). Fleas combs won't comb through the longer coats very easily--the tines bend and break. I like the kind imported from England. They have a great handle you can palm and metal tines that can really take a beating (or grooming.) I also use my flea comb to comb out the winter coats on my pets. They cost about $7.00.
Treating the Pet's Environment:
In general, the products used in the environment can be more toxic and last longer than those which are applied to the animal. Never use these products directly on your pet or children unless the bottle states it is safe to do so (even then, I would question this.)
Where young children and infants are concerned, more importance is placed on safety than effectiveness. This is why it is important for you to be involved in the choices of products for your home and pets.
Premise control products kill only the susceptible stages of the fleas at the point in time they are used. They are fairly safe and can be used as the main environmental treatment in homes that have birds and fishes as pets. The frequency of fogging and spraying depends upon the temperature and humidity, degree of flea infestation, the traffic of pets in and out, the effectiveness of the products used, and the amount of household clutter in which fleas can hide.
Foggers are designed to cover large enclosed areas and are set off while all occupants (including pets) are away. They are most effective in empty spaces and in crawl spaces. In homes with furniture or items covering the floor they are not very effective. Foggers can take care of up to 80% of the problem. Make sure you get one with a growth inhibitor in it.
When using foggers, remove all living things from the premises. Cover your fish tanks and remove all the birds. Read labels prior to using any foggers or premise sprays. Because the insect growth regulator Methoprene is also removed with vacuuming, vacuum or steam clean before using them and wait at least 4 days after fogging to vacuum. Foggers are basically gone after 10-15 vacuumings.
Put your dollars into growth inhibitor products for most effective and economical results.
Premise Sprays are designed for spot treatment or for difficult to reach areas and for areas which are not enclosed such as a back porch or doghouse. Use premise sprays for the baseboards, under the furniture, and between the couch cushions and around the edges of the water bed mattress.
These products last 2-3 months, are not as easily vacuumed up (they last for 20-30 vacuumings) and are very good for high traffic areas and for continuous protection. These products are broken down and become ineffective by the sun's rays. Use them for touch up in well-traveled pathways in the house where you may vacuum more often. Don't forget to treat your car if you pets travel with you (even just once to the vet.) This product is effective and a good use for your dollars.
Yard and kennel sprays are for outdoor use and should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Most fleas live within a 30-foot radius of the building -- where most pets spend their time. These sprays can be purchased at your veterinarian's office, pet shops, on-line, or at the local garden store.
Nematodes that eat flea larvae: A few years ago I carried a natural product of nematodes to sprinkle on your lawn that would kill the flea larvae. That would be a great product if it were effective. The downfalls to this product were that it had to be kept wet, the expiration dates are short, it is expensive, and one can does not go far. If anyone of you out there has found a good product like this could be, let me know!
Malathion and Sevin are the sprays used most frequently for the yard, but get inactivated by sunshine and they will not last over 3-7 days. Spray them after the sun has gone down and when you know it won't be raining for a day or two.
Housekeeping can be an extremely effective flea control measure. Vacuuming will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by the larvae for food. Vacuum up some flea powder or add a piece of flea collar to each new bag or burn the vacuum sweepings to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle in the compost heap or trash bag. Vacuuming EVERY DAY is essential if you don't want to use chemicals. Also, getting rid of carpet in your house helps a lot. I would also recommend an occasional shampoo of the carpets (not dry-chemical cleaning) as it will suffocate the cocoons.
A note about worms: When fleas (or mice) are ingested by your pet the tapeworm (cestode) is allowed to finish its life cycle. If you see rice-sized segments sticking to the hairs around the rectum of your pet or see the segments or "ribbon or noodle-like" worms in the stool or on the animals bedding you should contact your veterinarian for a drug to treat them. Over-the-counter worm preparations only treat nematodes (roundworms) and are not effective against tapeworms. Worming may be necessary as often as every three weeks (the life cycle of the tapeworm) depending on the severity of the flea problem.
When in doubt (especially for large dogs, which can be very expensive to worm,) bring in a fresh stool sample for a floatation. The floatation may not show eggs even though your pet has worms.
My recommendation is to worm your pets if you are seeing fleas with a good tapewormer (I use Cestex) and worm twice a year with pyrantel pamoate (also called Nemex or Strongid-T) roundwormer. Piperzine is useless these days for roundworming and no longer works at all in cats. The grocery store doses are ineffective.
If you have wormers at home and would like to try to use them up first, call your vet. We need to know the chemical name (scientific name) to be able to tell you if you have the proper medication.
NEVER give a store bought wormer to a pet who is sick unless your vet is consulted first. You may cause some severe problems--especially with triple wormers. I once had a relative give her pregnant dog a triple wormer. The dog strained so much that her uterus burst and she died.
Diatomaceous Earth: Not all diatomaceous earth (DE) is alike. Stay away from filtration types. All DE that is used for filtration purposes (pools, spas, etc) has undergone chemical and heat treatment. The heat treatment greatly increases the percentage of crystalline silica, which poses a serious inhalation risk. DE has high crystalline silica content and some DE has high levels of arsenic in it. Our local organic people recommend Perma-Guard (www.perma-guard.com). Another brand to use that is safe is Biconet. Only natural untreated DE should be used for insect control.
How does DE work? The dust clogs their breathing apparatus so they suffocate. Unfortunately it may also make asthma symptoms worsen.
Mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective for flea control in those houses with no carpets. Many of my clients with flea allergic animals and inhalant allergy children eventually change over to hardwood floors and linoleum.
Flea attractant lights. What a racket. Don't waste your money on this gimmick. White dishes filled with water and Joy dish soap: I suspect if you are attracting fleas to this kind of contraption that you have a severe infestation and should think about doing something a bit more effective.
Dr. Denice Moffat is a practicing naturopath, medical intuitive since 1993, and has worked around the veterinary field for over 31 years and has given this flea talk "about a bazillion times!" She now works on the family unit (which includes humans and animals) through her phone consultation practice established in 1993. She has a content-rich website at http://www.NaturalHealthTechniques.com and free monthly newsletter
• Fleas spend only 10% of their time on your animal
• An average fleas' life span can be up to 2-3 years
• One female flea can lay up to 1 million eggs during its life
• Eggs can live unhatched in your carpet for a year until the right environment for hatching occurs
• Bark dust, wood piles and ivy are great places for fleas to survive the winter months
• The flea is the second oldest insect (the cockroach is the first) because of its excellent survival mechanisms
The Flea Life Cycle
Adult cat and dog fleas prefer to feed on pets rather than people. The pets are closer to the ground and have warmer body temperatures than humans. Second choice would be children -- especially infants and toddlers. Female fleas will probe and bite and average of seven times in a "grouping" before locating a blood vessel in the skin. The saliva they leave with each bite can cause a localized allergic reaction (flea allergy dermatitis or FAD as we call it in the veterinary world.) After feeding on large amounts of blood, the female flea deposits her eggs and droppings (flea dirt) which consists mostly of undigested blood. Both the eggs (which are white and about the size of a grain of salt) and the droppings (which are black and appear like ground pepper, often in the shape of a comma) drop off the animal's coat and spread all over the environment.
Here's a quick home-test to see if your pet has fleas: Lay out a white piece of butcher paper and groom your pet for a few minutes as they stand on the paper. Do you see any black, comma-looking things against the white paper? If so, put a drop of water on it. If it's flea dirt, the water will turn pink.
Flea eggs remain in the environment for variable amounts of time and are not destroyed by extremes in temperature or by pesticides. When proper conditions exist, the eggs hatch and release tiny white larvae. These larvae are not able to get around and must rely on the undigested blood left in the droppings for their food source. Larvae are very susceptible to extremes in environment, pesticides, and insect growth regulators.
Within several days the larvae spin a protective cocoon called a pupae around themselves. The pupae are very resistant to all but steam cleaning and can lie dormant for many months to years. The pupae is the primary stage that over-winters in the environment. When conditions are favorable (warm and moist), the pupae release young adult fleas and the cycle is complete.
The length of the flea life cycle can vary from a little as one month to as long as two or three years.
Flea Control Products
There are many products available to eliminate fleas. They differ in effectiveness, application, safety, convenience, odor of the product, and duration of effectiveness. Sounds pretty complicated, right? It is. It's actually a chemical nightmare.
AN EFFECTIVE FLEA CONTROL PROGRAM MUST INCLUDE ALL ANIMALS IN THE HOUSEHOLD AND THE ENTIRE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH THE ANIMALS LIVE (INCLUDING YOUR CAR.)
Many people only use one product at a time, which is NOT effective. You must treat the animal, the house, and the yard all at one time to get this challenge under control.
Control of fleas on the pet: You have your choice of powders, sprays, dips, spot-ons or oral growth regulators.
Flea Powder: Manufacturers of these products say flea powder is safe to use every 3-4 days on dogs and cats older than 8 weeks of age. The active ingredient, (pyrethrins being the safest and most natural ingredient) takes about 15 minutes to kill fleas when first applied. By the end of 5-7 days, if not reapplied, flea powder works only as a residual, taking up to 12 hours to kill the flea. There is no growth regulator in this product so it only kills the adults.
Note: Powder should be diluted to half strength with talcum powder when used on puppies and kittens.
Disadvantages of flea powder: Flea powder can make the coat feel rough and dirty. So, if your pet is already uncomfortable from the fleas and now you are alienating them by not giving them the affection you used to when their coats were cleaner and softer, this makes the problem worse. The animals do not enjoy flea powder and it may make asthma worse.
Flea Sprays: Sprays can vary somewhat. Most are alcohol-based and some are more organic than others. The alcohol is for quick kill of the adult and pre-adult stages. Some flea sprays contain an insect growth regulator that will kill flea eggs as well. Make sure you get one with this in it. Pets run when they see you come to them with that bottle after a few applications.
The only time I use flea spray is when I'm treating a cat for ear mites (I spray some on a Kleenex and wipe their head down after I clean their ears and put medication down both ear canals.) I also use it to spray my pant legs when I take walks in the woods during tick season.
So, could you use rubbing alcohol or vodka to kill the adults? Yes, but using rubbing alcohol can be toxic. Rubbing alcohol contains a bit of methanol, which can cause blindness when ingested. Cats groom themselves and will ingest this. If you want to use alcohol, stick with vodka or Everclear, but it's really not very effective.
Aromatherapy: Herbal insecticides include pennyroyal (very toxic), clove, citronella, and eucalyptus oils (diluted of course.) These can be mixed in with shampoos or applied to a material flea collar. They can be very irritating when applied directly to the skin. They should not be put directly onto the coat either because when the animal grooms himself or herself they will ingest it. In general, pets hate this type of flea control and only submit to it in a learned helplessness type of situation.
Flea collars are only minimally effective in the control of fleas. Most collars contain dichlorvos, which is released as a vapor. They are sold under several trade names. Dichlorvos is toxic to animals and people and can cause severe reactions occasionally. Remember, flea and tick collars don't work well for animals over 20 pounds.
Note: Collars are especially harmful to Persian cats. They may also cause localized reactions around the neck.
Ultrasonic collars are ineffective and may cause hearing loss in your pet. Ultrasonic collars are an expensive gimmick. Don't fall for this.
Dips which kill fleas and mites for several days or weeks are highly toxic and should not be used for routine flea control. One study found that more than 3 dips per year led to an increased incidence of cancer. Wear gloves if you decide on this method of flea control (although I have no idea why you would.) Try to pick a non-organophosphate (OGP) type with a growth inhibitor in it.
Pour-on and Spot-on products containing organophosphates are also very toxic. Organophosphate spot-on kills the fleas only after it bites the pet and sucks its blood. These products are also dangerous where infants are concerned. Do not let a small child be exposed to the pet for at least 24 hours after these products are used. I have heard of instances where the parent found a dead infant the day after putting this on the family dog that slept with the child. They are applied once every two weeks. A good rule of thumb is "if a little is good, a lot is NOT necessarily better." Use only the dose specified on the bottle. Make sure you know the weight of the animal before you dose them. Make note of the next paragraph.
Common side effects to flea products may include hypersalivation, vomiting, and diarrhea. Some animals appear to foam at the mouth, others stagger about. Their pupils dilate and they seem disoriented. The best treatment is to remove the product from the animal's skin or body. Bathe your pet immediately—with a mild shampoo NOT containing flea control. Some animals may need to be treated by a veterinarian with atropine or steroids to help the animal deal with the toxicity and in some instances to save their lives. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to call your vet.
One product on the market seems to be working quite well and is minimally toxic. It is called Advantage. Advantage is a spot-on with a growth inhibitor, which works for 3-4 weeks. It permeates the fatty layer of the skin. It should be applied after the bath because bathing leeches the product from the skin. Advantix is a formula that is used for those who are in a tick area. It is also fairly safe.
For dogs that swim regularly, this product may not work as well as others such as Program. If Advantage is not working for you, you are most likely not following a total flea control program of treating all animals in your house, premise spraying the house, the car and treating the yard as well.
Occasionally I have seen Advantage react locally with the skin causing the hair in that area to fall out, but this is rare.
Program is an oral product that contains growth inhibitor. It is given once a month and literally sterilizes the adult fleas so they cannot produce any eggs. It is very safe for both the animal and owners. The animals don't mind the taste in most cases and it is very effective when used with environmental control. Some forms of Program also include a heartworm preventative and monthly roundwormer (pyrantel pamoate). This product is especially recommended for flea problems of a larger magnitude and for long term maintenance. It's not a good product for the flea allergic pet, however because the flea still needs to bite the pet to ingest the growth inhibitor.
I am often asked about Frontline products. I will have to say that I have never muscle-tested this product to be safe for any pet. It sure is popular and sells like crazy (I don't carry it.) I don't know why, but Advantage and Program seem to be the safest products with the fewest chance for side effects.
Flea Shampoos provide no protection once they are rinsed off. They can provide temporary relief (a few hours with severe infestation of the environment) and will kill the fleas on the animal at the time of the bath. They are good in getting rid of the flea dirt on the skin, but they also dry the skin out and are not good for dogs with dry/flaky or oily/greasy skin. It's better to choose the correct medicated shampoo for your pet in these cases.
Apply flea spray, powder, or Advantage to the pet after the bath for longer lasting results. Any animal having skin disease along with the flea problem should see your veterinarian for proper treatment and recommendations regarding diet, shampoo and treatments.
I'm sorry to say that B-Vitamins, Brewer's Yeast, Garlic, Cedar Chips and Herbal Flea Collars will not kill fleas. They do, however, make the skin smell bad to the flea and will deter them. Scientific studies show a decrease of only 20% in the flea numbers with the use of these products.
Note: Cedar chips and shavings can be harmful to your pet's skin. The slivers off the chips can embed into the skin and cause tumors (that goes for rats too!). The essential oil of the wood is also very toxic and has been known to cause cancer.
Avon Skin-So-Soft is used by itself as a flea deterrent and is in Duo-Cide products. To use this product, add 2 tablespoons Skin-So-Soft per pint water in a pint spray bottle. Shake well just before using each time--it is an oil/water interface. Skin-So-Soft may make the coat oily and you may have to wash the pet more often as the dust will stick to this oil more readily. If your pet has allergies, this would not be a good choice. The goal is to reduce allergen exposure on the coat for allergic pets. This product would help the pollens to adhere to your pet causing more problems.
Flea combs are highly recommended for animals that cannot tolerate flea products. The challenge is to get the owners to use the comb as often as necessary to help the animal--every day. Grooming can be biweekly after you comb off no more fleas for several days in a row. Continue to use the flea comb daily for those flea-allergic pets. Fleas need to be crushed with a thumbnail as they have very hard exoskeletons.
Some fleas combs are better than others. Try to purchase one that will rake off the adult fleas, eggs, and flea dirt all at once. These combs are also excellent in the prevention of hairballs in cats (and will comb out lice in a child's hair very effectively). Fleas combs won't comb through the longer coats very easily--the tines bend and break. I like the kind imported from England. They have a great handle you can palm and metal tines that can really take a beating (or grooming.) I also use my flea comb to comb out the winter coats on my pets. They cost about $7.00.
Treating the Pet's Environment:
In general, the products used in the environment can be more toxic and last longer than those which are applied to the animal. Never use these products directly on your pet or children unless the bottle states it is safe to do so (even then, I would question this.)
Where young children and infants are concerned, more importance is placed on safety than effectiveness. This is why it is important for you to be involved in the choices of products for your home and pets.
Premise control products kill only the susceptible stages of the fleas at the point in time they are used. They are fairly safe and can be used as the main environmental treatment in homes that have birds and fishes as pets. The frequency of fogging and spraying depends upon the temperature and humidity, degree of flea infestation, the traffic of pets in and out, the effectiveness of the products used, and the amount of household clutter in which fleas can hide.
Foggers are designed to cover large enclosed areas and are set off while all occupants (including pets) are away. They are most effective in empty spaces and in crawl spaces. In homes with furniture or items covering the floor they are not very effective. Foggers can take care of up to 80% of the problem. Make sure you get one with a growth inhibitor in it.
When using foggers, remove all living things from the premises. Cover your fish tanks and remove all the birds. Read labels prior to using any foggers or premise sprays. Because the insect growth regulator Methoprene is also removed with vacuuming, vacuum or steam clean before using them and wait at least 4 days after fogging to vacuum. Foggers are basically gone after 10-15 vacuumings.
Put your dollars into growth inhibitor products for most effective and economical results.
Premise Sprays are designed for spot treatment or for difficult to reach areas and for areas which are not enclosed such as a back porch or doghouse. Use premise sprays for the baseboards, under the furniture, and between the couch cushions and around the edges of the water bed mattress.
These products last 2-3 months, are not as easily vacuumed up (they last for 20-30 vacuumings) and are very good for high traffic areas and for continuous protection. These products are broken down and become ineffective by the sun's rays. Use them for touch up in well-traveled pathways in the house where you may vacuum more often. Don't forget to treat your car if you pets travel with you (even just once to the vet.) This product is effective and a good use for your dollars.
Yard and kennel sprays are for outdoor use and should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Most fleas live within a 30-foot radius of the building -- where most pets spend their time. These sprays can be purchased at your veterinarian's office, pet shops, on-line, or at the local garden store.
Nematodes that eat flea larvae: A few years ago I carried a natural product of nematodes to sprinkle on your lawn that would kill the flea larvae. That would be a great product if it were effective. The downfalls to this product were that it had to be kept wet, the expiration dates are short, it is expensive, and one can does not go far. If anyone of you out there has found a good product like this could be, let me know!
Malathion and Sevin are the sprays used most frequently for the yard, but get inactivated by sunshine and they will not last over 3-7 days. Spray them after the sun has gone down and when you know it won't be raining for a day or two.
Housekeeping can be an extremely effective flea control measure. Vacuuming will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by the larvae for food. Vacuum up some flea powder or add a piece of flea collar to each new bag or burn the vacuum sweepings to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle in the compost heap or trash bag. Vacuuming EVERY DAY is essential if you don't want to use chemicals. Also, getting rid of carpet in your house helps a lot. I would also recommend an occasional shampoo of the carpets (not dry-chemical cleaning) as it will suffocate the cocoons.
A note about worms: When fleas (or mice) are ingested by your pet the tapeworm (cestode) is allowed to finish its life cycle. If you see rice-sized segments sticking to the hairs around the rectum of your pet or see the segments or "ribbon or noodle-like" worms in the stool or on the animals bedding you should contact your veterinarian for a drug to treat them. Over-the-counter worm preparations only treat nematodes (roundworms) and are not effective against tapeworms. Worming may be necessary as often as every three weeks (the life cycle of the tapeworm) depending on the severity of the flea problem.
When in doubt (especially for large dogs, which can be very expensive to worm,) bring in a fresh stool sample for a floatation. The floatation may not show eggs even though your pet has worms.
My recommendation is to worm your pets if you are seeing fleas with a good tapewormer (I use Cestex) and worm twice a year with pyrantel pamoate (also called Nemex or Strongid-T) roundwormer. Piperzine is useless these days for roundworming and no longer works at all in cats. The grocery store doses are ineffective.
If you have wormers at home and would like to try to use them up first, call your vet. We need to know the chemical name (scientific name) to be able to tell you if you have the proper medication.
NEVER give a store bought wormer to a pet who is sick unless your vet is consulted first. You may cause some severe problems--especially with triple wormers. I once had a relative give her pregnant dog a triple wormer. The dog strained so much that her uterus burst and she died.
Diatomaceous Earth: Not all diatomaceous earth (DE) is alike. Stay away from filtration types. All DE that is used for filtration purposes (pools, spas, etc) has undergone chemical and heat treatment. The heat treatment greatly increases the percentage of crystalline silica, which poses a serious inhalation risk. DE has high crystalline silica content and some DE has high levels of arsenic in it. Our local organic people recommend Perma-Guard (www.perma-guard.com). Another brand to use that is safe is Biconet. Only natural untreated DE should be used for insect control.
How does DE work? The dust clogs their breathing apparatus so they suffocate. Unfortunately it may also make asthma symptoms worsen.
Mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective for flea control in those houses with no carpets. Many of my clients with flea allergic animals and inhalant allergy children eventually change over to hardwood floors and linoleum.
Flea attractant lights. What a racket. Don't waste your money on this gimmick. White dishes filled with water and Joy dish soap: I suspect if you are attracting fleas to this kind of contraption that you have a severe infestation and should think about doing something a bit more effective.
Dr. Denice Moffat is a practicing naturopath, medical intuitive since 1993, and has worked around the veterinary field for over 31 years and has given this flea talk "about a bazillion times!" She now works on the family unit (which includes humans and animals) through her phone consultation practice established in 1993. She has a content-rich website at http://www.NaturalHealthTechniques.com and free monthly newsletter
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Denice_Moffat
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
